The favourite pasta dish of the people of Ancona

Maccheroncini al fumè recipe is a rich, creamy pasta made with smoked pancetta, tomato, cream and a secret mix of cheeses. This iconic dish became a true cult classic in Ancona thanks to the historic restaurant “La Terrazza” on the Santa Maria pier in the old port. The place was famous for its panoramic terrace and for serving maccheroncini al fumè until late at night.

The story of Maccheroncini al Fumè in Ancona

For many years, when discos and dance halls in Ancona used to close around midnight, locals would head down to the port. They sat at the tables of La Terrazza and ordered a hot plate of maccheroncini al fumè.

Here they ended the night with friends, a view over the harbour and a steaming bowl of smoky, cheesy pasta. As a result, the restaurant became closely linked to this dish.

For many people from Ancona, maccheroncini al fumè still means that late-night plate eaten after dancing. They remember the smell of the sea and the lights of the ships in the background.

Over time, the maccheroncini al fumè recipe spread around the Marche region. Today it is one of the best-known comfort food dishes, always creamy, smoky and generous.

Ingredients for Maccheroncini al Fumè recipe

Every cook has their own version. However, a classic maccheroncini al fumè recipe usually includes:

• Short pasta such as maccheroncini or sedanini
• Smoked pancetta (or smoked bacon), diced
• Tomato passata or a rich tomato sauce
• Cream
• A mix of cheeses (for example a melting cheese and a harder aged cheese – the exact blend at La Terrazza was a secret house mix)
• Garlic or onion (optional, depending on the recipe)
• Dried oregano
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Salt and black pepper

How to cook maccheroncini al fumè

To prepare maccheroncini al fumè recipe, start by gently frying the diced smoked pancetta in a pan with a little olive oil. Cook until it turns lightly golden and releases its smoky flavour. If you like, add a little finely chopped garlic or onion and let it soften.
Then pour in the tomato passata and let it simmer to create a thick, concentrated sauce. After a few minutes, add the cream and season with dried oregano, salt and pepper. Adjust the balance between tomato and cream so that the sauce stays rich but not too heavy.
Meanwhile, cook the maccheroncini in plenty of salted boiling water until al dente. Drain the pasta and toss it directly in the fumè sauce. Finally, remove the pan from the heat and add the cheese mix, stirring until it melts and coats the pasta in a glossy, velvety cream. Serve immediately, while the maccheroncini al fumè are still very hot and the sauce is at its creamiest.

Maccheroncini al Fumè today

Today you can find maccheroncini al fumè in many restaurants and bars across the Marche region. Each place has its own version of the “secret” cheese blend and its preferred level of smokiness.
In Ancona this pasta still carries the memory of La Terrazza, late nights on the port and that last comforting dish shared before going home. For this reason, maccheroncini al fumè recipe is one of the most nostalgic and beloved dishes for locals.